Monday, July 30, 2012

Please wait while your payment is processed…

Of the many lifestyle changes that I’ve gone under during my PCV experience, the switch from the go-ahead-and-use-it credit card based system of the US to the only-buy-what-you-need-to-use-now prepaid system of Mozambique has been the most unexpected. As opposed to getting used to bucket baths, or assuming that everyone who says “estou a pedir _____” (I want _______) is begging, prepaying for everything has created some the most unexpected inconveniences.

Never thought I would look forward to online bill paying
Once a month I go to my local Vodacom vendor, buy a 500 metical ($20) cell phone credit voucher, scratch off the code, and type it in to my phone so that I can still make calls to non-vodacom numbers. Another 50 mt ($2) Vodacom credit code gets typed into my computer when I want to connect to the internet. On an almost monthly schedule, I buy 300 mt ($12) of electricity credit from EDM (Energia de Mocambique) to purchase my 87.5 kWh that I normally use. Ofcourse, if I have a lot of visitors, or am running all night Tesla coil themed disco parties, I end up having to buy more before the month is out.

Buy energy credit. Type in the code. Disco away
Where as in the US, I would surf the internet while watching TV, running the dishwasher, and toasting a bagel, here I actually count my kilo-Watt-hours. Just last month I wrote down how much credit I had at night when I went to bed (25.6 kWh) and how much I had when I woke up in the morning (23.4 kWh) so that I could figure out how much keeping my outdoor lights on at night was costing me (6.3 mt = 23c). It’s not that I’m pinching pennies, though traveling to Quelimane and buying 2kg blocks of Mozzarella cheese (880 mt = $33, not sold in credit form) does make a dent in my minimalist Peace Corps stipend. It’s that I don’t want to wake up one morning without any energy credit, and then have to walk up to far side of town so I can buy more electricity before I have a cup of coffee.

Luckily, cellphone credit is much closer, but I still find myself wondering if I really should call some out of network person, because it will cost me 5 mt (20c) a min. Since you receive text messages and in network minutes free when you buy 200 mt or more of credit, and they acrew if you purchase more credit before the month is out, I now have 2795 free text messages and 3268 free in network minutes. So if someone with a Vodacom number wants to hear the repetitive Mozambiquean pop songs (If I marry you, will you marry me, my love. If I marry you, will you marry me, my love…) that are played at the nearby bar, just let me know and Ill set my phone up there for a night. For those who don’t have Vodacom, I can send you a text play by play of the most recent Coco vs Chicken matches instead.

Most recent match of Coco vs Chicken
Both of these subtle adjustments are because though my Peace Corps stipend is inspired by the movie 300 (Spartan), I am still pretty well off for Mozambique. For those that don’t have this type of financial freedom, it means they buy 20 mt (77c)of phone credit when they need check in on a sick relative. It also leads to them buying oil in 50 ml baggies (15 mt = 56c) and soap bars by the decameter (5mt = 19c). Not only does buying household items in such small quantities consume more time, it is also more expensive. Each time a smaller quantity is bought, a middle-man is taking a cut, or maybe the whole pie.

Take my recent attempt at buying TV credit for example. I had been hoping to watch the Olympics on Juvencio’s satellite TV, especially the opening ceremonies. So when I found out that Juvencio did not have satellite TV because he didn’t have the money now to buy another month’s programming code, I figured I’d act as the credit card. But since SkyTV doesn’t have an office here in Nampula, it wasn’t just a matter of going to the store and buying a code. Instead, we had to wire the 450 mt ($18) to Juvencio’s-friend-in-Nampula’s bank account, who would then buy us the code and text it to us. Unfortunately, this friend-in-Nampula spent the money on his wife instead, so we haven’t been able to watch anything. We’re going to have to wait till our payment is processed by this other middle man…..

Friday, July 20, 2012

The Wok and the Boy, Part 2


Once upon a time there was a boy and a wok. Almost every day the wok would get a visit from the boy. After taking the wok off the pan shelf, the boy would look the wok straight into the bottom and ask “wok, please make me some deliciously exquisite egg fried rice.” Every time the response was the same: “sure boy, I’ll just use some rice, random vegetables you have lying around, eggs, oil, and soy sauce.” And when the boy would put the first bite in his mouth, he would sigh, for it was deliciously exquisite. And the wok was happy.

But then one day the boy asked the wok “wok, please make me some deliciously exquisite egg fried rice” and the wok looked around, but there was no more soy sauce. The large bottle of Kikkoman Original that the boy had bought in Nampula during supervisors conference was empty, not a drop left. Sadly, the wok responded “I’m sorry boy, but there is no soy sauce. We could make some fried rice with Raja curry seasoning and piri piri instead?” “Ok” said the boy, but once he put that first bite in his mouth, he knew that it just wasn’t the same. At times, it may have been delicious, and at other times exquisite, but never once was it deliciously exquisite.

Once the wok was washed, the boy put it back on the pan shelf, and walked away saddened. The next time the boy wanted to make fried rice, he picked up the wok, only to look at it and be reminded of the utter disappointment that accompanied the soy-sauce-less fried rice. So he put it back on the pan self, and went in search of other pans.

Each time the boy came into the kitchen, each time the boy laid out vegetables, each time the boy made rice, each time the boy looked at the wok, the wok thought “this is it, I’ve been forgiven, he needs me.” But the wok was only met with the same disappointment that the boy felt. And the wok was sad.

2 months and 3 weeks passed with the wok being used, an incredibly long amount of time for a wok. Then boy came back from a fantastic first-time trip to Quelimane with Gamill Superior Dark soy sauce. The wok thought “Sure that isn’t Kikoman Original, but it must be enough.” After laying out the vegetables, and putting the rice on the stove to cook, the boy looked at the wok. And it may have been the quickest little glance that has ever glanced, but for the wok it was like waiting for eternity. “wok, please make me some deliciously exquisite egg fried rice” the boy asked.

“Sure boy, I’ll just use some rice, random vegetables you have lying around, eggs, oil, and soy sauce.” After happily going through its work, the wok carefully watched as the boy served himself and his friend Eric a bowl of fried rice. Looking on from afar, the wok saw the boy lift the first bite to his mouth, and then sigh, for it was deliciously exquisite. And the wok was happy.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Getting SPF for the CAE from VAST


Juvencio, my counterpart and fellow french teacher 


This past week I've been camping out at the beautiful Hotel Millenio for a Peace Corps conference called PDM (Project Development and Management). Throughout the week, we attended sessions on how to identify the needs in your community, select a project which satisfies those needs, delegate responsibilities, design objectives and measurements for the project, write a grant proposal, and identify organizations that would contribute funds towards the project. Though the goal of this conference is to teach volunteers and their counterparts how to choose, develop, and fund a secondary project, the more immediate benefits are what is really appreciated.

Nothing makes you feel more at home than checking into a hotel room which features the same minimalists architecture of any Holiday Inn in the states, walking down to the pool to go swimming, but after finding out its too cold going to take a 30 min hot shower, then stuffing yourself with self-served food from shinny chaffing dishes (yay Ken Rent for the vocab). Though it was the hope that I'd learn what I need to do to get my bigger projects off the ground that got me to the conference, it was the luxuries that kept me there. 
Conference room full of PCVs and counterparts

Since staying, I have learned a whole bunch of new acronyms that are used in the peace corps grant writing world. As many of you share my love of acronyms, I feel it only right to give you a taste:
APCD-Associate Peace Corps Director,
EMARTS-Especifico, Mensuravel, Antigel, Realistico, Temporal, Sensibilidade de Genero
r-the person who is responsible for the task
R-person who is responsible for the project
PEPDFAR- Presidents Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief
VAST-Volunteer Activates Support and Training
PCPP-Peace Corps Partnership Plan

As usual, many of the sessions were a little to theoretical to be interesting, so I spent my time playing ultimate tic-tack-to and coming up with acronyms:
CAE-Centro de Actividades Extracurricular
SPF-Secondary Project Funds
POPCORN-Popular Options People Choose Often Remain Neutral
SHOWER-Supporting HOt Water Encourages Recovery



Dancing the cancan with Ariel and Steph during a project visit at an orphanage