Friday, June 8, 2012

What's Your Favorite?


Recently I’ve been feeling that my French lessons have been lacking that little “pizzaz” that made them an authentic Samuel Bar lesson.

The reasons are numerous.
  1.       Second Semester Slump
  2.          Rigorous’ french curriculum given to us by the provincial ministry of education
  3.         The now 2 weeks closer exams based off the curriculum given to us by the provincial ministry of education
  4.         Secondary Projects Exhaustion
  5.       Ran out of Nutela and coming down to the last box of mac-and-cheese

But the effect is the same; I have been more tired during lessons, which entertains the students less, which entertains me less, which makes me more tired for the next lesson, and so on. It’s been a depressing few days of classes, and distressingly the dread of having to go to teach has regularly preceded the past few days.

Then I asked for my students favorites as part of an activity about giving your opinion, and not only did the “pizzaz” come back, but I learned some interesting things about Mozambiquean 11th grade day and night class students:

2 in 6 turmas (classrooms) had Chris Brown as their favorite singer
2 in 6 turmas had Porto as their favorite sports team
2 in 6 turmas had Chelsea as their favorite sports team
3 in 6 turmas had Filiosofia as their favorite subject in school, if not for French of course
3 in 6 turmas had Killer Bean as their favorite movie, which I’ve never heard of
5 in 6 turmas had arroz con feijao (rice with beans) as their favorite meal, which I’d agree, is pretty good

The next day I asked for their least favorites

1 in 6  turmas had Pornographic films as the worst type of movies
1 in 6  turmas had Rato (Rat) as the worst type of food
1 in 6  turmas had Cabanga (fermented maize flour liquor) as the worst drink
2 in 6  turmas had Cacana (bitter herb) as the worst type of food
3 in 6  turmas had Tentacao (cheap and shitty gin, equally usable for killing brain cells and degreasing engines) as the worst drink
3 in 6  turmas had Terror films as the worst type of movies
3 in 6  turmas had Dalmacio as the worst singer
5 in 6  turmas had Mambas as the worst sports team

Now I don’t know what that this means beyond me being a very poor pollster. But if you figure it out let me know. 

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Potentially the Saddest Sight Ever


It is with a heavy heart that I have to announce the recent demise of one of my closest friends and dearest possessions: my jar of Nutela
Can you see the mix of sadness and disappointment on my face?


Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Naceu o Jornal Escolar de Alto Molocue


Starting my day with coffee and JEAM
One of the many books I read during my first few months at site was the Autobiography of Benjamin Franklin. In it, I learned the 13 virtues which he aimed to perfect within himself (Temperance, Silence, Order, Resolution, Frugality, Industry, Sincerity, Justice, Moderation, Cleanliness, Tranquility, Chastity, and Humility). I learned that even without going to college, he received a bachelor’s degree from Yale (honorary). I learned that he was one of the greatest inventors of his day (bifocals, wood burning stoves, oil lamps, public libraries, and of course electricity). And I also learned that a well edited, published, and distributed newspaper can become a valuable megaphone to a man who seeks to solve problems in his community.

Luckily, the volunteers over the 3 previous years in Alto Molocue, namely Kate Biling and Chris Boyer, had formed and maintained a school newspaper named “Chaves Para o Futuro”. This meant that much of the work to start a Peace Corps secondary project (finding a local counter-part, receiving authorization from the school, procuring students) had already been done. But due to an irregular publishing schedule, conflicts with school administrators, and the normal turn-over of most of the students, continuing with the same newspaper just didn’t make sense. I remembered that when I was a kid, the most exciting time to play with LEGOS was when you had just taken them out of the box and the possibilities of what they could become were endless. Even from a purely selfish perspective, let alone for the students, it is much more engaging to create something from scratch.

JEAM on the day it was formed
Now I have no formal education in journalism. But I did grow up in a home where a day could not begin until I’d read the most respected newspaper from the greatest city in the most powerful country in the world, namely the New York Times. Though at first I had to wear sunglasses to read its blindingly brilliant grey pages, reading it every day was how I prayed at the altar of journalistic excellence. Then, while my mom worked for the Glory of Reporting itself, I was able to visit the great temple in NYC and bear witness to the organized madness that is professional journalism. So with the pinnacle in mind, I spent many a night noting down how to organize, write, distribute, and pay for a school newspaper.

JEAM's Logo, isn't she beautiful?
With a head and notepad full of ideas, I began to figure out how things work at ESGAM (Escola Segundaria Geral de Alto Molocue) and put the word out that a newspaper was being started. After enlisting Freitas, a professor of geography and part time journalist for Radio Alto Molocue, we began posting fliers advertising a journalism club at the school and held our first set of meetings. Most of these encounters were centered around a key newspaper forming activity, like choosing a name for the paper, electing an editor in chief, designing the paper’s logo, printing journalist ID’s, giving a basic Journalism 101, and learning how to use my digital camera. Afterwards, we would spend the remaining time brainstorming ideas for articles and reviewing professional newspapers, either Mozambqiuean ones that I would bring back from my travels or the exemplary New York Times in the print.

At that point we set April 30th as our publication date and started collecting articles. It was slow at first, with maybe 1 article being completed a week. But once the journalists had their super fancy publisher edited color printed laminated ID cards, the articles started to pour in. Soon enough, our publication date had arrived, but due to gross managerial oversight, I had neglected to leave enough time for editing. So instead, we went to print 8 days late (still a victory in my book) and put out 7 copies of our first edition, at a cost of 150 mets (roughly 5 dollars). Lacking other sources for funding, I paid for the publication of this edition myself. Though not all that expensive, it set a poor precedent. How sustainable is a newspaper that has to depend on the largess of poorly stipended volunteers for printing costs?

Professors looking over the teacher copy
During the printing process, which was a comedy of double sided printing errors, I found out that there were two papelarias in town, the one we were at and its competitor. Grabbing at this information as a route to solving the problem of funding, I went down the street with my chefe de jornal Jonas to the check out the other papelaria. After a quick conversation, this second papelaria quoted us 112 mets for the same job. I then informed them that just like me, many people in town did not know that they were cheaper than the other papelaria, and if they bought add space in our next edition, they would be able to get the word out. Leaving the dona da papelaria to think over this little proposal, we went back to the first papelaria to inform them that their competion was willing to do the same printing job for less, and our next edition would be printed there. Accomplishing the rare hat trick of three birds with one stone, Jonas and I had printed our first edition, potentially made our first sale, and planted the seeds for our first price war. Mua ha ha ha.

Students and Teachers reading the first edition
After getting the two 1 sided copies signed by the pedagogical director of the school, we got some glue and posted them on the moveable bulletin boards, ready for the next morning. We then placed a two-sided copy in the sala das professors, the secretaria da escolar, the administration, and the municipio. The next day, the boards were moved outside, and we could officially consider ourselves as the successful creators, writers, editors, publishers, and distributers of a school newspaper. Sure there were many spelng and grammarifictastically errors, which no lack of people enthusiastically pointed out, and perhaps the pictures could have used captions, but otherwise it turned out better than I could have ever dreamed. Megaphone in place, now what do I want to say?





He’s a what, he’s a what
He’s a newspaper man
And he gets his ideas from a newspaper stand
From his boots to his pens
To his comments and his reps
He knows that any little article will do

“Dancing Choose” - TV On the Radio

Friday, April 27, 2012

Capulamikas


For the past couple weeks I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find the common thread between the sinking of the titanic, the declaration of the emancipation proclamation, an IRS deadline, and Alto Molocuean Passover. Water related deaths cover the titanic and Passover, but not the others. The federal government put the IRS and emancipation proclamation together, but again left two in the cold. Day of freedom could bring together all but the titatnic, unless you have a philosophical view of death. Try as I might, these 4 events shared only one strangely coincidental thread: April 15th


Ellen, Myself, Arielle and Dylan at the seder
Though the date commonly recognized as the time for the 5000-year-old-escaping-slavery -victory-party was more than a week before, Eliahu got to Alto Molocue a little late this year. Maybe it has something to do with the lack of Jews (10 in Peace Corps by my counting). Maybe it has something to do with the lack of matzah (only available if you make your own). Maybe it has something to do with the uncomfortable proximity to Gaza (province). Or maybe it has something to do with exam week falling on the same week as Passover. Whatever the reason, I spent global Passover eating 4 delicious egg, ketchup, and cheese (newly arrived to Alto Molocue!) sandwiches, but April 15th and 16th eating flavorless crackers.

On day before AMP (Alto Molocuean Passover) I left the breathtakingly beautiful Gurue, which I had come to for a JUNTOS (Peace Corps journalism group) conference, and made my way back to Alto Molocue in the company of Moz 17er Zackaria and Moz 16er Vincente. Sitting in the back of a pickup truck with about 20 other travelers, 2 chickens, 4 sacks of cement, 2 window frames, and a large piece of zinc roofing we made our way up the bumpy winding road. Due to the previous night's rain, the mud along the dirt road was quite bad. On two occasions the road was so slippery that everyone had to get out and push to make it up a hill. 2 sore ass cheeks latter, we arrived in Alto Molocue and made a brisk shopping trip (tomatoes, eggs, bread, sugar cane, and light bulbs) to prepare for the inundation of visitors from Cabo del Gado and Nampula provinces.

As this was the first time I was going to have a large group of volunteers at my house, I was quite nervous. Beyond the unusual jitters that come with being a host (clear directions, sufficient food, room to sleep, ect…) being a PCV adds a few more layers of stress. First, there is the problem of water. Where as in the US water is an effortless resource, any water I have here either requires a heavy rain or an exhausting trip to the pump. Hoping to avoid having to get water during the 3 days of visits, I had bought and filled an 80 litter balde (bucket) to supplement my already existing 150 litters of storage. Even so, 7 people drinking water, taking bucket baths, flushing toilets, cooking food, and washing plates used most of it up in a little over 24 hours. Luckily, I have the amazing Tojo to keep water in my house and my calm in my mind.

I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok,
I sleep all night and  I work all day
Another added stress is security. It is well known among PCVs that most security incidents happen when a large group of volunteers are together. Though I normally feel very safe at site, all the added attention that comes with having 6 more Americans in my house does change things. Hoping to avoid any incidents, I had spent the week before upgrading the security measures on my house. Knowing that a crocodile filled moat around my yard might make community integration a little difficult, I had to settle with putting up gates on the doors of my quintal, re-cementing the gelhas on my windows and doors, and making sure Coco was comfortable sleeping outside. Though these measures may not have done much in the event of an actual burglary, it put my mind at ease.

Harroset!
Feeling as prepared as I could be, I started walking up towards the paragem to welcome my guests to Alto Molocue. As if I had planned it, Ariel, Ellen, Patrick, Leah, and Christina all showed up just as I reached the highway. After allowing them to sample some off the finner things in Alto Molocue (soft serve ice cream) and taking them on a leisurely stroll through town (hike up a 10% grade hill with big bags), I brought them home. As requested, each guest had brought with them an ingredient for Passover, which they presented before our quick and easy dinner of spaghetti with sauce. After a couple round of beers from a local bar, we pushed furniture to the walls, turned the bed-sofa into a bed, and went to sleep.

Chicken's out of Coco's grasp
Monday found us awake and excited to start what would be the gross majority of our merry band’s first Passover (10 attendees, 3 Jews). To get all the ingredients for our feast, I went out with a small foraging party. Upon our triumphal return, we began cooking a Passover spread that would have made any Jewish mother proud. Chicken (first kills for Cristina and Ariel), matzah ball soup, harroset, homemade matzah, cacana (bitter herb), apple crisp, and friend rice alongside a giant balde of sangria to ensure that we all met the 4 drink minimum (check your hagada).


My fellow Jews Arielle and Ellen with their Capula
After distributing the capulamikas (capulana yamikas), everyone sat down and we began the seder. You should know that this wasn’t your grandfather's everything-in-hebrew-no-skipping-pages-wish-I’d-just-watched-the-rugrats-episode seder. This was a Sam Bar seder. And if you know anything about Sam Bar, you know he’s fast, and likes to talk in the third person. Though I would like to show you how it’s done, the extensive video recording system I set up never worked, so here are the highlights:



1) Tell the Passover story
     a. Jews building pyramids
     b. Moses to Pharaoh "Let my people go!"
     c. 10 plagues (voting is required)
     d. Pharaoh to Moses "I'm letting your people go"
     e. Pharaoh to himself "I shouldn't have let his people go"
     f. Chariot chase ends in Red Sea
     g. Moses to himself "Where should my people go?"
2) Four Questions
     a. Flavorless crackers
     b. Bitter herbs
     c. Condiments are awesome!
     d. Chillax the night away
3) Seder Plate
     a.  Egg
     b. Cacana (bitter herb)
     c. Dried Parsley
     d. Harroset
     e. Chicken Bone
     f. Wasabi (horse radish)
4) Drink wine and eat food

Despite the little mishap with the afikoman (one of the guests didn't understand that it was to be eaten latter, so they hid it in the toilet), everyone finished the night stuffed full of food and a little drunk on sangria. The next morning, we all packed our bags and headed to Nampula for the conference which takes place after 4 months at site for volunteers to compare notes and integration strategies, known as Reconnect. It’s also a great excuse to go shopping in Nampula for life’s essentials (peanut butter and duct tape).

Happy Belated Passover!

PS: I was unable to take any pictures of the Seder. Luckily, Ellen was snapping away and once I get the pictures from her, I will add them to the post.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Mi Kiri Pama


One of the things you need to know about Peace Corps is that all volunteers start to find very strange combinations of words hilarious. This unique brand of comedy is so strange that each country has its own, exclusive brand of comedy. Saying “These are not the ladraoes you are looking for” and throwing things like “E possivl”, “Entao”, and “E o Nao e?” randomly into sentences wouldn't be funny to anyone else, but to me they’re hilarious. It’s to the point where the funniest thing I ever get to hear on a regular basis is “I am fine, and how are you?”  coming from the mouth of some random Mozambiquean. Yes, the weirdly accented vowels are funny, and the overly earnest expression on their faces makes you chuckle, but what it really comes down to is relief. Relief that the communication barrier you normally have to break down has been broken for you. Sure, it may be the full extent of their English, but at least you’re not left alone sounding stupid in Portuguese.

But at some point, you don’t sound so stupid in Portuguese. In fact, you feel pretty confident that you can get your point across as long as you can find a way to explain what you mean with a very limited vocabulary. That’s why local languages were created.

The cultural gods’ gift to me was Elomwe. Spoken only in the northeastern region of Zambezia Province, it sounds like nothing I’ve ever heard. Though there are elements of Portuguese woven in, all the words are strange and new, which has made it challenging but fun to learn. Thankfully Ionde e su caderno?” (where is your notebook) if I don’t have it out fast enough.

have my good buddy Machonichone. I'm not actually sure that that's his name, and since its way to complicated to remember, I just call him Professor. Every time I see him at his bagged cooking oil stand, he’s ready with a new word of phrase for me to learn. At first, I would try to just remember them by hearing them, but I found out that unless I write it down in a little notebook, it’s like it never happened ( I must be my mother’s son because). So then I started carrying around an “Elomwe” notebook to dorkily whip out every time I see him. It’s gotten to the point that Professor even follows up the new words with an exasperated “
Starting out with the general greeting (Mosheliwa), we worked our way through salt (maka), water (mahi), tomatoes (tomates) essentially the items in front of us. But it wasn’t until after talking with my empregado that I found out that Mosheliwa didn't mean “hello”, but “how are you?” Having only the question, but not the answer, I felt so incomplete. Like Alex Trebec, I could ask questions I couldn't answer. I needed to know. So the next time I returned to the market, I returned with a purpose. Marching straight to Machonichone, I was pleasantly greeted with “Mosheliwa” to which I responded “como se dizes ‘eu esto bem, e voce?’”. But before telling me, before unlocking the secrets I desired, Machonichone made a notebook and pen mime with his hands. After surviving the trials of finding the pen and tinny notebook in my backpack-of-a-million-and-one-pockets, I finally was able to learn the Simon to my conversational Garfunkel:
Mi Kiri Pama, ka hi nu anu?”
(I am fine, and how are you?)
_______________________________________________________________________

On the day I wrote this post, I gave 6 end-of-trimester French tests. This means that after writing the test on the board and providing instructions maybe 20 times, I had a lot of down time to sit and watch for cheating. Sometimes I graded, sometimes I twiddled thumbs, sometimes I counted rafters, and sometimes I got inspired to write acronym puzzles in honor of World Malaria Day on April 25th:
M ighty Morphin Power Rangers
A rrested Development
L ibyan Dictators
A pple pie flavored Go-Gurt
R -Kelly
I celandic Mega-Banking
A merican Idol Creativity
What do these things and Malaria have in common? Nothing. They’ve come and gone while Malaria is still infecting 1 out of 3 people in Mozambique

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Just Like That


Sometimes, everything changes just like that (imagine me snapping my fingers in front of your face)
For a while now, I had known that this past Thursday was going to be a tough day. Besides all my regular classes, I was giving up my normally free morning to make time available for make-up tests. So though I had plenty of time to wake up and eat breakfast, I knew that my day would start much sooner than I would have liked.

While I cleaned up from breakfast, the first students started to arrive. They arrived alone, in pairs, or in large groups. They arrived in the all-white educacao fisica (gym) uniforms, in the blue and white school uniform, and in capulana (traditional patterned cloth) dresses with capulanas wrapped around their baby. They arrived with their notebooks, their backpacks, their pens, and a couple times without pens. Soon enough my front lawn was full of students taking the makeup exam. Coco isn’t so good with visitors, so I kept her inside, but Zoe was out and about greeting everyone with a playful bite to their feet or dress. Since most Mozambiqueans are very afraid of dogs, many of the students recoiled in terror the first time Zoe lunged at them. But after a short while, and a calm explanation, they’d remember that she’s only a child and can’t hurt them. While I sat in my chair writing lesson plans for the day’s classes, my students sat around me, dutifully taking the test and asking questions about my life in America. The sun was shining, a light breeze was blowing, things were good. Then, just like that, it all changed.

It started with me noticing a test paper being lifted up out of the corner of my eye. As I turned my head to face the student to whom it belonged, I noticed a notebook open beneath the test. Furious that a student would try to cheat while taking a makeup test no more than a yard away from me, I quickly got up in my chair and walked over. With a red pen in hand, I angrily snatched away her notebook and scribbled a “-5” on the page, as I had told them I would if I caught them with a cabula (cheat sheet). After scolding her for trying to cheat, I walked the short distance back to my seat and began to sit down.

While sitting, I began to hear a loud, high pitched, scream coming from pathway in front of my house. Thinking that it was children playing on their way back from school, I thought nothing of it. But the screams kept coming, and they no longer sounded playful. They sounded painful. Standing up to get a better view, all I could see was a bamboo stick swinging down hard at something on the ground, each swing followed by a yelp. Paying no regard to the students still taking their tests, I marched out of my yard and on to the path. Following the screams, I found three boys: one standing by doing nothing, one bleeding from the head, stick in hand, and one on the ground with bruises on his legs. I immediately started yelling for the one with the stick to drop it. After the weapon had been dropped, I ordered them to follow me to my house, so we could clean the wounds. Walking faster than them, I was able to make it inside my house, grabbed some toilet paper, and walked back to my gate by the time they arrived. Looking at the bloody boy first, I grew concerned. The blood streamed all down the front of his face and chest, making it impossible to tell how many, or where, the cuts were. Always cautious about the prevalence of AIDS in Mozambique (1 in 6 by official counts, but probably higher) I gave the boy toilette paper and asked him to clean up the blood himself. As he was in shock, it took some time for him to clean himselff up, but it was clear that it looked much worse than it actually was. After discovering that the two boys were brothers, I asked what had happened. The boy with the bruises tried to explain how he had been provoked, all the while choking back tears. The boy with the blood was still in shock, so he didn’t say anything at all. Not having the time or the willpower to sort out the truth, I told them I didn’t care how or why they had started fighting. I told him that hitting people with sticks is not a way to treat someone. I told that that when we behave like animals, we will get treated like animal. Satisfied with my scolding, I then told them to go home.

Finally, I made it back to my students, and though still shaken, was able to continue with the make-up tests. Immediately after, I started what is my hardest day of the week; 7 ½ hours of almost continuous classes. Though I hadn’t taught the lesson before, my first class went fantastically. The students happily participated in the name asking game “Comment-tu t’appelles?”, took notes in silence, and asked valid questions during the time set aside. But either because I was still unsettled by what had happened that morning, or because I was just tired after a busy week, all my classes went downhill after that. My second turma was rowdy and disorderly, with a single, but notable, incidence of backtalk. The third, which is normally my favorite, was mostly empty, and those that were still there rushing to get out and head home. I then came my first of three night classes, which I entered with low spirits and even lower expectations. Though my adult students started acting as they normally do, my gloomy disposition must have rubbed off on them because soon they were disinterested, bored, and tired looking. After writing the two new verbs and 12 new vocab words up on the board, practicing how to pronounce them, and explaining the homework assignment, I tiredly sat down in one of the empty chairs at the back of the room. Disappointed, dispirited, and stressed, I was at a loss for how I was going to make it through my next two classes. “Mozambqiuean teachers falta (skip) all the time, it’d only be a sign of cultural integration if you joined in”, “A poorly taught class is worse than no class at all”, “you can just make up the lesson next week” I told myself, ready to give up and head home. Then just like that, it all changed.

It was then that the chefe de turma (classroom president) Justino sat down next to me. After asking a couple questions on behalf of some of the students in the class, we got to talking. We talked about what the weather was like in New York. We talked about where he was from and how big a family he had. We talked about if I knew Jay-Z or Kanye West. We talked about how much it would cost to get to Chicago. We talked about how he was the director of one of the primary schools in town. We talked about how I learned my French and Portuguese. With each question asked, with each question answered, with each personal detail shared, some of the exhaustion melted away. As the class ended, we were talking about how so many teachers never show up to class, when he said “Mais sinceramente, muito obrigado senhor professor para sempre assistir a nossos aulas. Nos somos muito appreciativo para su traabalho.” (Use google translate). Taken aback by the compliment, I was at a loss for words, and almost to tears. After a rough day, nothing felt better than to hear a thank you from one of my students, especially a well-respected and intelligent one.

The next two classes went swimmingly. When I was up in front of the class, I was animated and engaged, and the students responded by participating excitedly. When I was seated at my desk, I passed most of the time happily humming or drumming out an upbeat song I had heard the day before. Even when I caught a student cheating on a make-up exam, I just kept on humming while I marked the “-5”, with no change in my demeanor. Once my classes were completed, I went home, had a class of hot chocolate, and went to bed with a smile.
Just like that.

Like this, like that
Like this this, like that
I like it, I like it
Not at all, Not at all
Take it easy
“Like This Like That”- Hideki Naganuma

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

The Broly Trinity



What do you see when you look at this picture? A selection of all the greatest American name brand foods that you could find in your local grocery store.

What do I see when I look at this picture? A selection of all the greatest American name brand foods that I would almost never eat at home, but would sell my kidney to get here (figuratively speaking of course).

A pleasantly large box full of these items is what greeted me the last time I was at Peace Corps office in Nampula. It may have arrived there a few weeks before, and in Mozambique a few weeks before that, but the date that always will matter to me is March 9th. On that day I found out something that might change the very existence of how I see travel. It might expand and redirect my notion of what my home is. And it might mean that living in a convenience store is the most hospitable locale.

Home is only as far as the closest box of mac-n-cheese, mug of hot chocolate, and apple.

That’s right, the physical distance between you and the closest box of mac-n-cheese, mug of hot chocolate, and apple, or The Broly Trinity, is directly proportional to how far away what you consider your home is. Revolutionary, right?

The first question you might like to ask me is “Sam, why is it called ‘The Broly Trinity’?” To which I would diplomatically respond, well that’s a dumb question. Of course it’s the Broly trinity, bro.

The second question you might like to ask me is “Bro, what unit of measurement should I use for the distance from me to The Broly Trinity?”  Great question! To find this distance, or TBTIHF? (Adorable puppy pics to whoever can figure out what TBTIHF? stands for), you could use your standard issue mac-n-cheese box, mug of hot chocolate, and apple and lay them head to foot, as shown.  That is Wrong! Though it may be accurate, this is a time consuming endeavor and uses the object to measure itself. That’s like defining a word with the same word. That’s like trying to get somewhere with an unfilled chapa (bus). That’s like only using metaphors to define metaphors. Which is to say, it gets you nowhere.

To measure TBTIHF?, bring together your closest mac-n-cheese box, closest mug of hot coco, and closest apple. Do you have all three? Good. Now how many modes of transportation did it take for you to acquire them? Congratulations, you have just measured your first TBTIHF?. That is how far you are from home.

So the next time you feel lost, confused, sad, stressed, overworked, underpaid, exhausted, and just generally shitty, form a Broly Trinity. You Are Home. Then be thankful that it did not take you 2 chapas, a gas stop, two belayas, another chapa, and a very friendly Peace Corps employee (Marcelino!) to complete your trinity.

PS: Thanks so much to Shari for allowing me to gather the trinity
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coco and Zoe Update: If you haven’t noticed yet, the “pup formerly known as Poco” (as she will be called in her later years) is now named Zoe. Though the similarity of Poco and Coco may have been cute, Coco was getting way too confused. Currently, Zoe has been peeing on my floor less and only attacks my bright blue alpaca wool poncho*, as opposed to that and all my other clothes. As she’s begun to eat real food, I’ve been training her based on the great advice I been given by many of the Peace Corps dog owners. Once she stops puking up her real food, I’m giving Zoe to Dylan, my site mate.


Where you been hiding
Where you been hiding from the news
Cause we been fighting lately
We been fighting with the Wolves

"The Wolves"- Ben Howard

* Many of you said I would never get to use my bright blue alpaca wool poncho, flannel lined carharts, or fluffy wool socks. Many of you said that Africa can’t get cold. Well many of you were wrong. This past Saturday night, after a hard rain, I felt a shiver in my shorts and t-shirt. So on went the cold weather clothes, when it was maybe 20C (70F). That’s what 10 straight months of summer (May 2011- March 2012) do to you.